Much more than a satellite off-shoot from its Mile High City roots, the local establishment is part of the trendy, impressive new dining scene on South Tejon Street. By day, until 2 p.m. during the week and 3 p.m. on weekends, the DBC bill of fare commands the space. Then, with no more visible effort than switching to a new menu, Fat Sully’s Pizza takes over.
The two, along with the Atomic Cowboy bar, are part of the Atomic Provisions restaurant group. The bar and both eateries share the same hours.Think of it as a three-in-one place, depending on when you’re there. My focus now is on those biscuits.
The menu offers sandwiches with fillings piled high between two biscuit halves. Also available are plates that include biscuits as an integral component of the meal. The chicken pot pie ($11.95) is one of the most mushroom-enriched versions I’ve tasted. And this is no complaint. Additionally, chicken, peas and potatoes in a thick, garlicky gravy topped with crispy fried onion strips smother a biscuit. This goes beyond mere comfort to the contentment zone.
Shrimp and grits ($11.95) should more aptly be called a bowl rather than a plate with the biscuit as its centerpiece. French toast that doesn’t use bread slices, a granola bowl and strawberry shortcake are among other possibilities. The granola, according to the menu, is house-made. This isn’t the only item from the kitchen that’s crafted on site.
The Elmer at the Denver Biscuit Co. , with smoked pulled pork, barbecue sauce, fried onions, coleslaw and housemade pickles . The sandwich is stacked at least 4 inches high.
The pork in the Elmer ($10.95) is smoked for 10 hours. This sandwich is stacked at least 4 inches high with tangy, smoke-infused tender pork, covered with tart, creamy slaw and more of those fried onions. Forks and knives are indispensable. None of this is finger food.
Six of the 11 sandwich skyscrapers highlight buttermilk fried chicken, with the biscuit taking the place of the white meat’s usual companion, the waffle. Although it was dark brown , the chicken on the Winona ($9.95) boasted a brittle, flavorful coating. House-made pimento cheese evoked taste memories of the South.
It’s difficult, but try saving room for the strawberry shortcake. Strawberry sauce and whipped cream on those biscuits shouldn’t be missed.
Hours: 8 a.m. to 2 p.m. weekdays; 8 a.m. to 3 p.m. weekends